Arrested Development - Ex-Pats Mexico

Just to start off the southern forum, I want to rave about living here in Mérida. I had missed living in a city more than I realized. In the last week or so I've been to 2 gallery openings and a book signing, music in the park with panuchos and drinks under the stars, the state fair, a tasting and talk by a chocolatier and an esteemed orchid expert - those two were at the same event, Orchids and Chocolate it doesn't get much better - and a party out at the beach. It was a busy week and I skipped some other events that sounded interesting. It's a joy to live in a cosmopolitan, sophisticated and beautiful city again, I just wish it would warm up a little - it's been rather cold lately even dropping into the 60'sF.

Jonna writes:

Just to start off the southern forum, I want to rave about living here in Mérida. I had missed living in a city more than I realized. In the last week or so I've been to 2 gallery openings and a book signing, music in the park with panuchos and drinks under the stars, the state fair, a tasting and talk by a chocolatier and an esteemed orchid expert - those two were at the same event, Orchids and Chocolate it doesn't get much better - and a party out at the beach. It was a busy week and I skipped some other events that sounded interesting. It's a joy to live in a cosmopolitan, sophisticated and beautiful city again, I just wish it would warm up a little - it's been rather cold lately even dropping into the 60'sF.

Well, those of us wintering in San Cristóbal de Las Casas (down from Lake Chapala) are pleased to hear that it's a bit chilly in Mérida although our plans to come down from the mountain and visit The Yucatan - more specifically Calakmul. Lake Bacalar and the Bay of Chetumal - are predicated on the notion that it will be somewhat toasty over there. I am not, however, surprised to hear it´s chilly there as we have had some chilly and overcast days as well although interspersed with heavenly days of warm, brilliant sunshine and crystal mountain air and the bluest sky we´ve ever seen which is saying something for a Californian.

While San Cristóbal is a small city compared to Mérida (about 150,000 vs. , say, close to one million) we also are pleased to have a seasonal home that is at the center of so much urban activity. San Cristóbal is a compact walker´s town´of stunning ancient colonial architecture so we share your excitement at being in such a place.

Some interesting news:
* They are working on the new San Cristóbal-Palenque autopista which will cut the driving time between San Cristóbal and Palenque through formidable mountains and jungles from five hours to about an hour and a half. When that´s completed, the drive from Highland Chiapas to Tabasco and on through to the Yucatan Peninsula will be a lot easier. Maybe the Dawg will have to find himself a spit of land over on Chetumal Bay for a beach shack. This is a really exciting development and we look forward to the opening of that new autopista. Some of the Zapatista municipalities are making progress difficult but it looks like a done deal.
* They are burying all of the utility lines in San Cristóbal in order to qualify for their impending designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the result is incredible. When they finish they will designate additional pedestrian malls (almost certainly the restaurant/bar/ tourist services street Real de Guadalupe) free of all that auto congestion. The urban infrastructural improvements here are an exciting trend. It´s an exiting time to be here as I am sure it is in Mérida.

Of course, we missed the opening of the new WalMart Supercenter in Ajijic but we have discovered the magnificent Chedraui regional supercenter in Tuxtla Gutierrez which has all that stuff I planned to bring down from Lake Chapala and that is 45 minutes away over the Kamikaze Highway so all is right with the world - at least today.

Glad to see you on board, Dawg.

We finally made to the new WalMart Sunday. IMO, a disappointment, but they do have some nice produce and the fish and chicken aren't smelly. As yet.

We'll still be hitting Pancho's and driving over to Guad on occasion.

They have started burying utility lines in some sections of the historic centro of Mérida, it won't happen everywhere anytime soon but the parish of La Ermita is first and is getting a major facelift. They even will pay for the paint for owners to paint their houses anywhere in Centro, you must use one of the many approved colonial colors - no bright turquoise - but it has had a big effect and the spiffed up houses add to the charm. They also close a route across the whole Centro, down the impressive boulevard of Paseo Montejo and across the Centro to the church in La Ermita, every Sunday morning for walkers and bicyclists. It's hugely popular and you will see lots of people out on bikes with their families. I'm impressed with the city govt, no govt is perfect but they are doing some great things.

As for the cold, we are already on norte 10 and winter just started. It's still shorts weather for those of you from colder areas but it feels very cold to people who are acclimated to warmth. They are predicting around 40 nortes for this winter, locals say that even a few years ago there were rarely more than 10. I guess it is our version of global warming.

So Jonna, does this mean your house is all done ??? ( I guess I should check your blog!)

oh dear jonna biddy bubba turnip truck birthday password wen WTF? palin turkey thanks giving cbescapee wood pedro old sally forth gringal steve twit davidf spend spend spend debt debt debt

Arbin is back or has arrrrived - that may be a good thing

arbon had a LOT of pent up posts!

No, it is still a work in progress...

We are at the endless finishing stage. They are painting and there was a guy there today with a floor polisher working on the concrete and pasta tile floors. There is a lot left to do. The front of the building was taken down to the stones and resurfaced but is not painted. There is neither a front door nor a garage door, instead the old ones (now much smaller than the opening) are leaned up with sand bags to secure the building. One of the workers is also living there in a hammock in the sala for added security. There are no fans or light fixtures or appliances installed. Some of the closet drawers are installed but none of the other cabinetry for the kitchen, baths or guest bedroom are finished. I have no idea when it will be ready for occupancy but I am confident that it will happen sometime, and I'm not pushing for speed. My architect is off to Mexico City tonight where he is accepting an award from Architectural Digest for a renovation he did earlier. I am still impressed with his work and his integrity and it is nice to see him get this recognition.

Pics I took today.



If anyone is really interested in the whole process, I have a couple of Picasso albums up. To see what it looked like when we bought it in March of 2007.

http://picasaweb.google.com/jonna.harlan/MeridaHouseBefore?authkey=PtWepHXOT_U#

and this is an album documenting the renovation as it went along. We started work in January 2008.

http://picasaweb.google.com/jonna.harlan/MRidaHouseRenovation?authkey=GOk2St46XpA#

oops, Arbon slipped in while I was uploading pictures. Hi Arbon, you old Limey. Good to see you here.